Guatemala 2012

Since we landed yesterday, I've had a distinct sense that nothing happens quickly in Guatemala. My New York impatience has yet to wane and I am relentlessly challenged by the leisurely pace of this beautiful country.

Sitting at a small restaurant with a tranquil lake stretched out as far as one can see, I wish I could appreciate the majestic volcanoes that tower above the lake, but I am instead obsessed with worry that our food won't arrive in time. We crossed Lake Atitlan several hours ago and toured an artist colony. Our ferry was curiously named Tel Aviv, a fact that shouldn't surprise me; I've seen many places that made reference to Israel. As the food arrives I realize that it was desperate hunger and not my impatience that had distracted me. The scenery is far more beautiful than I had previously noticed.

Our home base is across the lake in Panachel Three dormant volcanoes, dominate the skyline and though they haven't erupted in hundreds of years, I now notice several villages that sit below them conspicuously tempting fate.

My three caballeros, Mikey, Ben and Zach have joined Jamie and I on this trip. They are happy to have escaped Antigua, a very touristy town half-way between Guatemala City and Panachel. We spent a layover day there yesterday. Our highlight in Antigua was a rendevous with Shirley who was the boys Nanny when they were young. She brought her mother, whom we affectionately call Mamito, and Joshlyn, her 5 year old daughter. Joshlyn is stunning with her dark eyes and dark skin and has mastered the art of slapstick humor. She is busy making us laugh by putting a braid of her hair into her nose. I always wondered if I could relate to a daughter. Joshlyn is proof that I could. Shirley travelled here from Belize, a ten hour trip on a bus with a broken bathroom. We spend the afternoon eating crepes and drinking Gallo, the local beer and laughing at the crazy things the three boys did while growing up under her supervision. Our goodbye is short but sad.

But tonight we are in Panachel. For dinner we'll eat Uruguayan food. On the walk to the restaurant I am amazed at how many places serve pizza and how many stray dogs join my family group as we search for our chosen restaurant. As the group gets larger I feel like a Pied Piper of sorts, or atleast the Dog Whisperer.

Dinner is great but mostly we are anxious to get some sleep before our dental mission begins tomorrow.